Zorro Maintenance Calendar

Zorro maintenance calendar.pdf

Spring (March-May)

Mowing - At the first signs of green, set your mower as low as possible without scalping the lawn. This will help remove excess winter thatch and help transition your lawn into the spring. Zorro should be maintained at 1 – 1½ inches throughout the growing season keeping a very sharp mower blade. Rotary mowers can be used to achieve a satisfactory result for turf maintained at one inch and above. While Zorro can tolerate mowing heights as low as ¼ of an inch it is recommended to use a reel type mower for anything less than 1”. It is not recommended to maintain Zorro above 1½” as this will allow the grass to thin out and weeds will have a better chance of infesting.

Fertilization - Zorro requires less than 2 lbs of Nitrogen (N) per 1000 square feet per year and should be applied in ½ lb N per 1000 square feet increments. The first fertilization should be applied no sooner than three weeks after green-up. The first fertilization should be based on soil tests and a complete nitrogen-phosphorous-potassium is recommended at a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio (consult Fertilizer Calculator)

Watering - Zorro needs about 1” of water per week but this varies by soil type. Sandy soils require more water because they percolate faster, heavier soils such as clay will require less water. A good indicator of a drought stressed lawn is when the grass has a grayish look and the blades are folded or rolled. If you see these indicators it is time to irrigate. Heavy, infrequent irrigation to a depth of 4 – 6 inches is important to a healthy lawn, and can be achieved by watering ½” every three days.

Weed Control - Postemergent herbicides can be applied starting in May to control summer annuals and perennial broadleaf weeds. Be sure the product you choose is labeled for use on zoysiagrass. For any herbicide applications always read and follow label directions carefully.

Insect Control - Check for and control any white grubs. . For any insecticide application read and follow label directions carefully.

Disease Control - Patch disease can be persistent in the spring especially if there is extended periods of rain or overcast weather. Circular patches of tan or brown sunken turf 2 to 6 feet in diameter may appear when Zorro greens up. As temperature increases, the zoysiagrass will begin to recover. Do not apply any nitrogen until you see the areas starting to improve. Cultural practices such as proper mowing height, mowing the lawn when it is dry, and controlling thatch will help prevent disease. Applying a fungicide in the spring is not recommended. For any fungicide application always read and follow label directions carefully.

Summer (June – August)

Mowing - Always keep a very sharp mower blade for maintaining Zorro lawns. Mow as needed throughout the summer months being mindful that if you have to mow frequently, the grass may have too much fertilizer. Mowing about every 7-10 days is normal. Never remove more than one third of the leaf blade at a time. Mowing heights above 1½ ” will reduce turfgrass density and increase weed problems. If a scheduled mowing is missed and clippings clump on top of the Zorro, bag or vacuum clippings to reduce shade-out and excessive thatching.

Fertilization - Apply ½ pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet in late June and repeat application in mid August (consult Fertilizer Calculator).

Vertical mowing - This may be needed if excessive thatch has built up over time. A power rake is effective in de-thatching your lawn but do not attempt to remove too much thatch at one time for Zorro is slow to recover. Vertical mowing or de-thatching should always be done when the grass is actively growing. If you are unsure as to how to go about this process consult a Modern Turf professional for advice.

Watering - Follow the spring guidelines. Additional hand watering may be necessary on “hot spots” in extreme heat.

Weed Control - Apply postemergent herbicides as needed to control summer annual and perennial broadleaf weeds. Do not apply herbicides on Zorro if it’s under any kind of stress i.e. drought, low fertility. Crabgrass, goosegrass, and nutsedge are the predominant grassy weeds during this period. Multiple applications may be needed to control certain weeds. Make sure herbicide is labeled for zoysiagrass, as Zorro can be sensitive to some chemicals. For any herbicide applications always read and follow label directions carefully.

Insect Control - Follow the spring guidelines. Mole crickets and armyworms can hatch during this period and may need to be treated with an insecticide. August is the best time to control grubs because they are small and feeding near the soil surface. For any insecticide application read and follow label directions carefully.

Disease Control - Follow the spring guidelines. Fungicides can be applied during this time period if needed. If disease is present, follow the label and use the curative rate for best control. For any fungicide application always read and follow label directions carefully.

Fall(September-November)

Mowing - Follow the spring guidelines.

Fertilization - DO NOT apply nitrogen at this time. DO apply 1 pound of potassium using either 1.6 pounds of 0-0-60, 2 pounds of 0-0-50, or 5 pounds of 0-0-22 per 1,000 square feet (consult Fertilizer Calculator).

Watering - Less water is required as the grass goes dormant, but DO NOT let the soil become completely dry. Check soil moisture once a week and water if needed.

Weed Control - Apply preemergent herbicides in late September / early October for winter annuals such as poa annua, chickweed, and henbit. Apply postemergent herbicides only when weeds are present. Be mindful to use a product that does not use a nitrogen based fertilizer (such as most Weed & Feed products) as the carrier agent. These products contain far too much nitrogen to apply at this time of year. Check with your local Lesco or John Deere Landscapes store for a better selection of winter preemergent products. For any herbicide application always read and follow label directions carefully.

Insect Control - Check for and control any white grubs. For any insecticide application always read and follow label directions carefully.

Winter (December – February)

Mowing - It is not necessary to mow at this time, but continue to remove sticks, debris and fallen leaves preventing them from decomposing and becoming additional thatch.

Fertilization - This is a perfect time to test your soil. Zorro thrives at a ph level of 6.0 – 6.5. If soil results indicate the ph is low, add lime at the recommended amounts per the results. A slow release nitrogen (PCSU, IBDU) at a ½ pound rate can be applied to Zorro in late February to help with spring green-up. DO NOT apply any quick release nitrogen (urea, ammonium sulfate, etc.) during this period.

Watering - Although your lawn is not actively growing, it is still crucial that it is not completely dry. Check the soil moisture once a week and apply water as needed, especially under extreme cold and windy conditions. Water will protect the stems from freezing which can lead to death in the spring.

Weed Control - Apply preemergent herbicides late February. The target weeds for this application are crabgrass and goosegrass and the product rate should be followed for these specific weeds. Apply broadleaf herbicides as necessary to control winter annual weeds such as chickweed and clover. For any herbicide application always read and follow label directions carefully.

About Zorro Zoysia - Zorro zoysia is a matrella variety released by Dr. Milton Engelke from Texas A & M. It is currently (and has been for some time) the number one rated zoysia in the world. It benefits from a sharp mower as the abundant silica in the leaf blades tend to dull mower blades more quickly than other grasses. Zorro, like all zoysia grasses, does not like wet feet (particularly in the winter) and is not fond of nitrogen fertilizer. Once established, water it when it is dry and keep the fertilizer to a minimum. While Zorro has great shade tolerance, compared to other grasses, it is important to remember that no grass is shade loving – only shade tolerant. Any grass grown in the shade should be kept a bit higher than other parts of the lawn. Leaf blades are like solar panels and the larger they are, the more sunlight/energy they can absorb.